Be Authentic: Be Meaningful.

Interview to Franco Cologni, founder of Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri D’Arte.

Q: Mr Cologni, tell us something more about yourself, please.

My name is Franco Cologni. I am the founder and the chairman of the Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte; a private, not-for-profit Foundation I created in 1995 to promote, protect and preserve the metiers d’art, that is to say those extraordinary artisanal activities that constitute the backbone of Italian excellent production. After taking a degree in philosophy and letters at the Università Cattolica in Milan, I pursued dual careers both in writing and as an entrepreneur in the sector of luxury objects and accessories. For forty years I collaborated with Cartier, becoming Worldwide Chairman and, following Compagnie Financière Richemont’s acquisition of Cartier, was appointed Executive Chairman of the Group’s jewellery and watches sectors. In Milan, as mentioned, I founded the Cologni Foundation for the Métiers d’Art, dedicated to the promotion and encouragement of artistic craftsmanship, and the Creative Academy, an international school of design and creative management.

I am also the founder and Chairman of the Cultural Committee of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. In 2016, together with Johann Rupert, Chairman of the Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, I created the Michelangelo Foundation for Creativity and Craftsmanship, also based in Geneva, the aim of which is to foster and support master craftsmanship at an international level, creating work opportunities while sustaining regional cultures and knowhow.

Q: Mr Cologni what is your definition of Authenticity?

According to the philosopher François Cheng, beauty to be authentic must have “sense”. And there are three ways to intend “sense”. Sense as sensation: we must experience beauty. Live it.

Touch it, feel it, hear it, smell it: so, authenticity is already connected to something you experience, and that has to make you feel inspired, touched, changed. Sense also means direction: sometimes beauty is only an appearance, a gilded image that brings us to the wrong direction, seducing us and making us forget the value of ethics. So, authenticity is linked to an idea of integrity, of well doing, of trying to become the best form we’re supposed to be. And finally, sense is seen as “meaning”: beauty, to be authentic, must be understood. Me and my dog, we both can look at a sunset: but for me that incredible show of lights and colours has a meaning, while for my dog it hasn’tt. He sees, but he does not perceive. So, Authenticity is always connected with the right perception. Authentic is also something clearly identifiable with its creator: “author” and “authenticity” have the same root, which is also the same as “authority” - something authentic is authoritative, it stands out. And finally, authentic is what is not kitsch: “kitsch” defines something which is deprived of values, a surrogate, while “authentic” is something imbued with power and consistency.

Q: Fondazione Cologni: an institution in favour of Made in Italy how did this all start?

In 1995 I noticed that, in Italy, the culture of fine craftsmanship was somehow in crisis. There was little knowledge about the metiers d’art, and very few young persons were interested in becoming artisans; while these activities constitute a real competitive advantage for the best Italian production. So I decided to invest in the creation of a Foundation which could both help the young generations to discover these activities, and maybe invest in their future by becoming artisans. I would also invite designers, connoisseurs, experts and key opinion leaders to rediscover the beauty of handmade, fine objects, born from the talent of the best artisans. Because to love something, you must first get familiar with it.

Q: Plans for the future?

We are celebrating our 25th anniversary in 2020, and we have a number of initiatives: an exhibition dedicated to the best Milanese artisans, three new books, a new issue of our magazine “Mestieri d’Arte & Design” with a completely renovated graphic, new apprenticeships to finance, new partnerships to develop… and we have just relaunched our website dedicated to the best Italian schools of arts and crafts, www.scuolemestieridarte.it, which is part of the “constellation” of our platform Wellmade (www.well-made.it), the community of the lovers for everything made by hand with care and dexterity.

Fashion & Luxury Culture Department Coordinator

ANGELA BIANCHI

Q: What do you recommend to those who want to set up and launch an "authentic" brand?

Be authentic with yourself and refrain from shortcuts. Invest in your own culture: study, study, study! It is the only way to avoid the “déjà-vu”: discover your own wishes and dreams, find your own voice.

Be meaningful.